![]() There is also a way of getting (sort of) faced boards out of a planer. The shooting board should give better results. Then use your jointer or a shooting board and a hand plane. To get a true jointed edge you first need a flat, non-twisted face to reference to the fence. There are two major steps to making straight, flat, boards. I've read reviews from plenty of people that have had great luck with this jointer. ![]() I'll start a new thread soon asking for help with this thing. ![]() If you have skill and experience with tuning jointers I think it would be a great bargain. I got it mainly because every other jointer I saw was looking to be at least $600, as opposed to the less than 200 bucks I paid for the Harbor Freight. I'm getting lots of tearout and snipe even with proper adjustment of the tables and having the knives sharpened.ĭust collection is basically non-existent. The stock knives don't seem particularly good. Despite using a magnetic jig and trying to set them several times I still don't think I have them set properly. The very act of tightening the bolt to set the fence causes the fence to move. You'll definitely need a good try square. The gauge that shows the tilt is basically useless. Getting the fence to 90 degrees with the bed is not easy. The tables, from what I can tell, are flat. Pros: The motor has plenty of power and I haven't had it bog down. I got the 6 inch Harbor Freight jointer recently. I tried to post on the HFT site about the jointer table hitting the blades and something happened and the post never showed, but I have not seen anyone else post about it, so it might have been a manufacturing issue with mine (line worker was drunk or napping) or who knows. Spent $200 on both and am happy after I got them working to my likes. I use it as a back up to my Ridgid planer when the ridgid is down or I just dont want to run something through the ridgid. I also got the HFT planer from the same guy in the same deal, and after checking that the blades were aligned, it works fine. I had to tear the table apart and grind the part of the table at the slide in the rear down so I could do less than an 8th cuts.Īfter I got her back together, and squared up, I set the table to 1/16 cuts and that is where she remains. Meaning if I had the table set up to cut less than an 8th of an inch, the blade cylinder would be pinned against the outfeed table and would not turn. I quickly found that the outfeed table side would hit the blade cylinder if raised too high. I bought it took it home an put it through my calibration as learned through various online videos. I looked at the blades, it only has two and they were not beat up or anything I could see. I went down to check it out and it was as he described. Turned out he bought it because he retired and wanted to make picture frames and the only reason he was selling is because he was moving from my area to Florida. Talked to the guy to question what he used it for and to see if he was a woody or what.
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